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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My 2007 2.7l on 140k km , I'm not sure how old the transmission fluid is. It's not smelling burnt, not black but a light brown. Was possibly drained/filled partially just before I bought it a year ago hence light brown. It seems over full as above hot Mark. When engines cold ( idle higher/fluid thicker) Downshift to 1st is a bit jerky - anyone else get this?

Anyway, got the service manual, their draining includes both drain plug and then running engine with hose going to cooler in a bucket, presumably to let the pump empty it further.

Anyone done this or advise against it? Should I just drain via plug or not change at all given condition/age/milage???

Any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

I didn't end up doing this in the end (thanks for reminder!)
The manual paraphrased states (with my comments in brackets)

1.Disconnect hose between transmission and oil cooler (3.3L) or radiator (2.4L)
2.Start engine in "N" idling let fluid drain out, turn engine off as soon as fluid stopped draining, run for 1 minute at most.
3. With engine now off, remove drain plug to drain the rest
4. place drain plug back on (40~50Nm)
5.Pour new fluid in oil filler tube (presumably where level gauge dip stick goes)
6.repeat step 2 (with hose off still to flush I suppose?)
- Repeat 5 and 6 if fluid still contaminated
7.pour new fluid in filler tube
8.reconnect hose and replace dip stick
9.run idle for 1->2 mins
10.(presumably with engine still running) move trough all gear positions then back to N
11.Drive until fluid at operating temp, then check its up to the hot mark on dip stick

Hope that helps. In summary its fully draining it by using engine pump action through hose output, then drain plug, then flushing, then filling and level checking :)
One though I had was due to age of mine, disconnecting hoses if difficult/fragile I may avoid and just drain what I can from drain plug. There is also the school of thought that on an old gear box may rely on slightly slushy liquid and flushing entirely may cause issues, so this may also justify the non-hose disconnect method? Not to mention uses less liquid etc.
I don't know enough to verify that idea e.g. if you don't disconnect the hose and 'prime' new fluid through, can you get air bubble issues etc, I guess not?

Also, manual doesn't mention but I would have thought a full drain may be easier to achieve if its slightly warm first?

Anyway, good luck, let me know how it goes!
 

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Warm greeting. Thanks a million. I will go just for the drain and repeat after a few hundred kms. I am conservative/retired and will let you know what I did. Truly grateful
 

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drain n fill was what I had done on my '02 with 130kmiles, very pleased so far. The research I did pointed towards a flush n fill being hard on the tranny that high in mileage. I think I've put around 5k on it since.
 

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Thanks for your info. Really encouraging . I need your assistance on oil change for transaxle and gear. Oil change.
1. Don’t have the suction pump. Difficult to get here. How did you do it, can a small funnel do. Oil container doesn’t have long tip like you have. Just regular plastic bottle
2. To open the transaxle oil feed. It says use a 10 hex. Here we don’t have hex openers. Another way to open i
My first time and I am bothering you
Best
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Guessing by your last two posts that you have a different model/year? e.g. no straight forward fill in dip stick?

Otherwise, check out youtube for santa fe 2007 drain and fill (sorry can't post links yet!)
 
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