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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2017 Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L engine. Noticed oil leak after changing oil and thought drain plug not properly sealing. Went through a series of new crush washers without stopping leak. Further inspection seems to show origin of leak is not at drain plug, but about 3/8" below drain plug, through the oil pan itself! Looks like the oil pan has developed a pinhole leak.

Has there been a history of this? Has anyone else had this issue or heard anything like this?

Thanks for any info.

Frank DeCarmine
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Took car to Hyundai dealer -- since I bought it used, warranty was 60k miles, I was at 63K.
Service rep: "Sorry sir, looks like you cracked the pan by overtightening the oil drain plug"
Me: "But the crack is half inch away from drain hole. If I overtightened, would crack not originate AT drain hole?"
Him: "I didn't actually SEE the crack, but every one I HAVE seen was from overtightening. We can replace pan for $394"

So... bottom line -- ordered new pan and gasket from ebay for $44. I have 2-post lift and will replace pan myself...
 

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Did you have to top your engine oil when you had the leak. I see trace of oil leak on the pan but engine oil is not decreasing. Is the oil on pan from a leak ?? Or something else .
When you changed the pan, did you lose all the engine oil and you have to refill again.
Your info was helpful. Please help
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lost VERY little from leak -- may have lost more on the rag from frequent checks. Oil on pan definately from a leak -- hyundai dealer confirmed pan was leaking. Haven't changed the pan yet -- still waiting for ebay shipment. At one time when I thought leak was from drain plug I emptied all oil into clean bucket and re-used after changing drain plug. But I have a 2-post lift which made it easy to do that.
Since I now have more than 3000 miles since last change, I'll probably put in fresh oil. I usually change oil at 7k miles
 

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Thanks a million. Please update me when you change the oil pan. I just changed the engine oil and want to see if engine oil decreases. If it doesn’t I will leave it to the next oil change; 10,000 Kms
 

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This email comes to you all from a senior citizen who just obtained his fifth Hyundai. I had 2 Sonata's, 1 Azera, nopw on my second Santga Fe. The biggest and most stupid mistake the company ever was was to discontinue the AZERA in the USA. Was a better car than 2 prior new Mercedes I owned. I had a 2017 Santa Fe Ultimate and now have a 2021 mostly stripped S/F SEL. The second biggest mistake Hyundai made was trying to breathe oxygen into the Genesis. That model should have never been built. Just got my # 5, a 2021 Santa Fe SEL. I am not accustomed to a nearly stripped car but this new 3 year lease got me out of a $16k loan balance on my 2017 Santa Fe Ultimate. Here is how Hyundai screwed up for 2021:

1- The compass that was in the rear view mirror is gone and the ONLY way to access this is to push buttons while you are driving. An unnecessary distraction.

2- There is no auto dimming mirror in this SEL model.

3- The engineers truly screwed up with the unlocking and locking of the car if you are outside the vehicle with the transponder in your hand or in your pocket. After 12 weeks I still have to use the remote to open and then lock the car.
I paid a Hyundai tech $25 for 30 minutes of his time showing me how to do all the new things this car has. It was NOT done at the dealership where I leased the car. The ONLY thing the salesman showed me before I left with my new car was the gas tank door release is no longer in the drivers door. Now, if the car is unlocked just push the access door.

4- From a design stance, the (4) wheel wells are too high. This was obviously done to accommodate 3 size tires. If you get the 18" as I did, too much of the internal undercarriage is exposed. Not very elegant. My car came with the two side-to-side roof rack rails which I took off the day I got the car. Weighs a ton, $500 list price. More B.S. I will buy the car when my lease is up and will soon offer these two side rails and clamps for an El cheapo price.
 

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Had to have the car towed to Hyundai agent THE BILL WAS $1,100. To fix a stuck epb for this much is lousy of a Hyundai with only 115k miles. I live in a flat area; no hills
They wanted me to change rear shock absorber for $2,500. Told them no. Going to BYK or Monroe
This is my last Hyundai
 

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I have a 2017 Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L engine. Noticed oil leak after changing oil and thought drain plug not properly sealing. Went through a series of new crush washers without stopping leak. Further inspection seems to show origin of leak is not at drain plug, but about 3/8" below drain plug, through the oil pan itself! Looks like the oil pan has developed a pinhole leak.

Has there been a history of this? Has anyone else had this issue or heard anything like this?

Thanks for any info.

Frank DeCarmine
For any make, model car you own, you can always go to your computer and search for the TSB's. This is the Technical Service Bulletins. It is a great source to find out about recalls as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks a million. Please update me when you change the oil pan. I just changed the engine oil and want to see if engine oil decreases. If it doesn’t I will leave it to the next oil change; 10,000 Kms
Update on oil pan leak: Watched a couple youtube videos, looks easy! Bought new oil pan, car is on lift now. Removed all bolts holding pan and A/C compressor, TRIED to break RTV seal holding pan to block. HOLY MOTHER OF GOD, that sucker's not moving!!! Did some research and came across this Amazon tool -- search for "pan seal cutter by JTC 1315". Had my doubts, but THE TOOL WORKS. Took about 20 minutes to break the seal. NOTE: make sure to support pan before it finally breaks loose, else you'll have residual oil from pan EVERYWHERE! Ask me how I know.

Haven't applied RTV (Permatex Ultra Red Hi-temp) to new pan nor finished assembly, but not expecting any problems. HINT: I bought a 4" length of M6-100 threaded rod, cut it into 2 2" pieces, and inserted one each side of block. I expect to use these as guides to ensure no sideways slippage as I lift pan onto block, then remove and insert final 2 bolts.

I'll update upon completion, but expect the HARD work is already done.

BTW, lost less than 8 ounces of oil during the month I had the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did it occur to you to use AT-205 re-seal?
No -- I think that product might work on o-rings or other seals, but don't think it would stop a leak THROUGH the metal itself. What I DID consider was using a dab of JB-WELD or JB-KWIK externally on the pan. Only issue might have been, since I have a 120,000 mile short block warranty (as part of software update), if there was a subsequent engine failure -- as I had on my 2011 Sonata -- might someone at Hyundai think: "Look! He plugged an oil leak. Maybe he had run out of oil. Maybe THAT's the cause of the failure, not the chips we neglected to remove from the crankshaft after machining..."

BTW, there WAS a dab of SOMETHING externally on the pan. I removed it (knocked it off) while performing my last oil change, thinking it was just some extraneous substance from -- who knows where? Now I've been wondering if it might have been a "factory repair" for defective oil pans. I had no oil leaks before then...
 

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Thanks. Your response was enlightening for me. Mine is a weeping leak but not a drop on the garage. Thought I would just leave it as it is as long as oil level doesn’t drop from oil change to next
 
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