[decarmine]

I have a 2017 Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L engine. Noticed oil leak after changing oil and thought drain plug not properly sealing. Went through a series of new crush washers without stopping leak. Further inspection seems to show origin of leak is not at drain plug, but about 3/8" below drain plug, through the oil pan itself! Looks like the oil pan has developed a pinhole leak.

Has there been a history of this? Has anyone else had this issue or heard anything like this?

Thanks for any info.

Frank DeCarmine

 

[hnajee]

Have the same problem. Please update me if you have the solution

 

[decarmine]

Took car to Hyundai dealer -- since I bought it used, warranty was 60k miles, I was at 63K.
Service rep: "Sorry sir, looks like you cracked the pan by overtightening the oil drain plug"
Me: "But the crack is half inch away from drain hole. If I overtightened, would crack not originate AT drain hole?"
Him: "I didn't actually SEE the crack, but every one I HAVE seen was from overtightening. We can replace pan for $394"

So... bottom line -- ordered new pan and gasket from ebay for $44. I have 2-post lift and will replace pan myself...

 

[hnajee]

Did you have to top your engine oil when you had the leak. I see trace of oil leak on the pan but engine oil is not decreasing. Is the oil on pan from a leak ?? Or something else .
When you changed the pan, did you lose all the engine oil and you have to refill again.
Your info was helpful. Please help

 

[decarmine]

Lost VERY little from leak -- may have lost more on the rag from frequent checks. Oil on pan definately from a leak -- hyundai dealer confirmed pan was leaking. Haven't changed the pan yet -- still waiting for ebay shipment. At one time when I thought leak was from drain plug I emptied all oil into clean bucket and re-used after changing drain plug. But I have a 2-post lift which made it easy to do that.
Since I now have more than 3000 miles since last change, I'll probably put in fresh oil. I usually change oil at 7k miles

 

[hnajee]

Thanks a million. Please update me when you change the oil pan. I just changed the engine oil and want to see if engine oil decreases. If it doesn’t I will leave it to the next oil change; 10,000 Kms

 

[hnajee]

Had to have the car towed to Hyundai agent THE BILL WAS $1,100. To fix a stuck epb for this much is lousy of a Hyundai with only 115k miles. I live in a flat area; no hills
They wanted me to change rear shock absorber for $2,500. Told them no. Going to BYK or Monroe
This is my last Hyundai

 

[decarmine]

Thanks a million. Please update me when you change the oil pan. I just changed the engine oil and want to see if engine oil decreases. If it doesn’t I will leave it to the next oil change; 10,000 Kms

Update on oil pan leak: Watched a couple youtube videos, looks easy! Bought new oil pan, car is on lift now. Removed all bolts holding pan and A/C compressor, TRIED to break RTV seal holding pan to block. HOLY MOTHER OF GOD, that sucker's not moving!!! Did some research and came across this Amazon tool -- search for "pan seal cutter by JTC 1315". Had my doubts, but THE TOOL WORKS. Took about 20 minutes to break the seal. NOTE: make sure to support pan before it finally breaks loose, else you'll have residual oil from pan EVERYWHERE! Ask me how I know.

Haven't applied RTV (Permatex Ultra Red Hi-temp) to new pan nor finished assembly, but not expecting any problems. HINT: I bought a 4" length of M6-100 threaded rod, cut it into 2 2" pieces, and inserted one each side of block. I expect to use these as guides to ensure no sideways slippage as I lift pan onto block, then remove and insert final 2 bolts.

I'll update upon completion, but expect the HARD work is already done.

BTW, lost less than 8 ounces of oil during the month I had the leak.

 

[decarmine]

If I had to do it again, I probably should have paid Hyundai the approx $300 to do the job...

 

[hnajee]

Did it occur to you to use AT-205 re-seal?

 

[decarmine]

Did it occur to you to use AT-205 re-seal?

No -- I think that product might work on o-rings or other seals, but don't think it would stop a leak THROUGH the metal itself. What I DID consider was using a dab of JB-WELD or JB-KWIK externally on the pan. Only issue might have been, since I have a 120,000 mile short block warranty (as part of software update), if there was a subsequent engine failure -- as I had on my 2011 Sonata -- might someone at Hyundai think: "Look! He plugged an oil leak. Maybe he had run out of oil. Maybe THAT's the cause of the failure, not the chips we neglected to remove from the crankshaft after machining..."

BTW, there WAS a dab of SOMETHING externally on the pan. I removed it (knocked it off) while performing my last oil change, thinking it was just some extraneous substance from -- who knows where? Now I've been wondering if it might have been a "factory repair" for defective oil pans. I had no oil leaks before then...

 

[hnajee]

Thanks. Your response was enlightening for me. Mine is a weeping leak but not a drop on the garage. Thought I would just leave it as it is as long as oil level doesn’t drop from oil change to next

 

[decarmine]

LONG OVERDUE FOLLOWUP:
Factory-applied RTV sealant is obviously computer-guided. Manually-applied sealant is NOWHERE NEAR as neat. Squeezing 3-ounce RTV tube gets incredibly difficult as you progress.

Dorman Products oil pan (264-359) is listed on the Dorman web site as being correct for 2017 Santa Fe Sport 2.4L engine BUT only 22 of the 23 mounting holes actually line up with the Hyundai block. The 23rd hole is about 1/4 inch mis-located. I was already committed -- RTV in place, many of the mounting bolts already tightened when I dicovered this -- so I decided to proceed, trusting that the excess RTV would be adequate to seal that location.

Since thr RTV pretty much goes wherever it wants when being manually applied, some of it actually ends up in the block's threaded holes, preventing me from reaching full torque value when tightening the mounting bolts . But remembering how difficult it had been to remove the factory-installed oil pan after the bolts had been removed, I felt pretty confident the RTV by itself was certainly capable of holding the pan to the block...

It's been 1300 miles since I replaced the pan, so yesterday I put the car on my lift and removed the belly pan. To my delight there was no sign of leaking oil, even by the mis-located mounting hole!

This turned out to be a relatively easy repair, but I think if I did not have a 2-post lift, but had to do it lying on my back under the car, I would have elected to spend the money and let Hyundai do it...

 

[rdw2022]

I have a 2017 Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L engine. Noticed oil leak after changing oil and thought drain plug not properly sealing. Went through a series of new crush washers without stopping leak. Further inspection seems to show origin of leak is not at drain plug, but about 3/8" below drain plug, through the oil pan itself! Looks like the oil pan has developed a pinhole leak.

Has there been a history of this? Has anyone else had this issue or heard anything like this?

Thanks for any info.

Frank DeCarmine

Having the exact same issue since I bought mine with 16000 miles on it. It's at 27000 and its back after dealer said its the washer. Thinking its a oil pan issue as well because its not above the drain plug area.

 

[wwiesner]

i have a 2014 santa fe sport 2.0T since 3 years ago noticed every 2500km i would have to add 1 ltr of oil to the engine.

i have had hyundai look at the full motor with a "red seal" mechanic and they cant find anything. no oil on driveway and no smoke from exhaust. not sure what else to do?