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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need help with my 2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (sorry that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise.
I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.

My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it.
They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms.
Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks.
I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship.
I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.

I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know wha I need help with my 2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (sorry that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise.
I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.

My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it.
They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms.
Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks.
I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship.
I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.

I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.

Link to photobucket video of noise.

http://vid972.photobucket.com/albums...fe noise.mp4

Please help

Thanks

JPt to do anymore.

Link to photobucket video of noise.
 

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I'm having the same issue on a 2005 SF GLS 2.7L. I saw one post that a guy put a light coat of engine oil on the belt and that stopped the shorting. Though I just got the vehicle TODAY, I have a strong suspicion that there is a short between the crankshaft position sensor (or other nearby sensor) and the engine block. Maybe try replacing the sensor, and while you're under there, check all the wires going to the sensor and other sensors to make sure there are not slices in the wire insulation. If there is, use liquid tape, or electrical tape to insulate / isolate it from shorting out. My pulley wobbles a little bit, which is think is part of the issue. The pulleys should not wobble!

My symptoms (the car was given to me for free today - so this is from the most recent owner): Brake light comes on. Battery light comes on. Intermittent chime of seat belt light / sounds. Sometimes the car doesn't start or dies suddenly. The first thing I noticed was the negative battery cable post clamp got super hot, really quickly. This indicates to me there is a grounding problem somewhere.

The very first thing I did just now was to unhook battery, remove battery tray (4 bolts, 10mm) and then remove the ground wire that goes from the negative battery cable to the fender well just under the battery tray. I ground the paint off of the area around the bolt with some coarse sandpaper, sanded the washer end of the negative battery cable that attaches to the fender, and the bolt threads that attach it all together, and then wiped it clean with acetone. Now apply dielectric grease to all the areas you sanded, and reassemble it all. This is vital to do on old / high mileage vehicles. Bad grounds can cause fires, blown fuses and relays and sensor / instrument failures.

Nevertheless the problem persists. This is why I think it's the things I mentioned in the first paragraph. The "spark" is an arc between the nearest metal object and the closest exposed electrical component - most likely the crank sensor. I hope this helps you. I have yet to dig in further. Hope I will remember to update this post later when I figure it out.
 

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check these threads below... there is static buildup on some cheap belts apparently ... light coat of oil will temp fix it I've read (but not yet tried) as well as swapping out with a high end belt that doesn't have nylon threads in it (which get exposed from wear). Also could be alternator dying and throwing off aberrant charges / static to the crankshaft pulley.

https://www.--------------------/lc-2000-2005-accent/88913-2002-accent-spark-crank-pulley.html
https://www.--------------------/lc-2000-2005-accent/103744-random-arching.html

those urls seem to be edited out ... but the ----- should be replaced with www . hyundai-forums . com
 

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Ok I fixed the same problem that the OP had. The problem was the harmonic balancer being shot. Yeah, fooled me too. Had to ask around about it. It's not a terrible job, but it requires some know-how to do. Pulling the crank pulley / harmonic balancer is tricky without an impact. So is putting it back on. I pulled mine by putting a breaker bar on the nut and tied the handle to the lower control arm, pulled out the fuel pump relay and the ignition wires so the motor wouldn't start, and turned the key in the ignition for a couple seconds. Nut broke free fine. I pulled the pulley off by hand. Putting it back on I tightened up the nut by hand as far as it would go, put the belt back on and tensioned everything back up. Without an impact you have to do something to keep the motor from spinning while tightening. I used a spark plug "stop". It threads into a spark plug hole, and then has an adjustable stop that will contact the piston in the cylinder and keep the motor from spinning. Tightened to 81 lbs of torque and viola! No more spark or popping static sound when the motor is going. While I was in there I had to replace the alternator too. They are right together and you may as well do them both together. Also, plan on checking your timing belt and water pump if you haven't had your 100,000 mile service. Fortunately for me, at 275,000 miles, someone had already replaced the timing belt and all looked good there. So alternator was $100 online, crank pulley / harmonic balancer was $45. DIY and I saved myself over $750 in labor and markup. Car runs perfect again. Hope this helps someone else.
 
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