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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got to 1500 miles on my 2.0T and did DIY oil change. Not waiting until 3000 miles since I will be headed to Corpus Christi, Texas from Virginia next week and trip will be about 1600 miles. Used Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 with Fram XG9688 filter and also enrolled in Quaker State 300,000 cash-back program with a $20 mail-in cash rebate. Really impressed with the underside of my 2.0T. Shroud underneath the engine reminded me of my old 2004 Infiniti G35 coupe. Protects engine and hoses from road debris and helps aerodynamics. Here is the skinny on the actual DIY:
(1) Used garage ramps which I have had for years.
(2) Changed while oil was still warm.
(3) Needed to remove cover openings from shroud to get at filter and drain plug.
(4) Drain plug is 17mm. Picked up oil drain plug washers from dealer beforehand. Washers are aluminum and cost $0.97/each. Use new washer.
(5) Removed factory OEM filter with regular filter wrench but some of you may want to use a cap-style wrench since filter access will be tight. Since I will be using Fram filters, I purchased this type when I bought my new filter and will use for the life of my 2.0T.
Oil capacity added was exactly 5 qts and took about 20 minutes. Will be changing oil at 5000 mile intervals.
 

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Just got to 1500 miles on my 2.0T and did DIY oil change. Not waiting until 3000 miles since I will be headed to Corpus Christi, Texas from Virginia next week and trip will be about 1600 miles. Used Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 with Fram XG9688 filter and also enrolled in Quaker State 300,000 cash-back program with a $20 mail-in cash rebate. Really impressed with the underside of my 2.0T. Shroud underneath the engine reminded me of my old 2004 Infiniti G35 coupe. Protects engine and hoses from road debris and helps aerodynamics. Here is the skinny on the actual DIY:
(1) Used garage ramps which I have had for years.
(2) Changed while oil was still warm.
(3) Needed to remove cover openings from shroud to get at filter and drain plug.
(4) Drain plug is 17mm. Picked up oil drain plug washers from dealer beforehand. Washers are aluminum and cost $0.97/each. Use new washer.
(5) Removed factory OEM filter with regular filter wrench but some of you may want to use a cap-style wrench since filter access will be tight. Since I will be using Fram filters, I purchased this type when I bought my new filter and will use for the life of my 2.0T.
Oil capacity added was exactly 5 qts and took about 20 minutes. Will be changing oil at 5000 mile intervals.
Have you or anyone else used a Fumoto Oil Valve? and if so, how did it work out?

Also, how important is the "top-tier" gasoline issue. I've never encountered that in other cars.
 

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Just got to 1500 miles on my 2.0T and did DIY oil change. Not waiting until 3000 miles since I will be headed to Corpus Christi, Texas from Virginia next week and trip will be about 1600 miles. Used Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 with Fram XG9688 filter and also enrolled in Quaker State 300,000 cash-back program with a $20 mail-in cash rebate. Really impressed with the underside of my 2.0T. Shroud underneath the engine reminded me of my old 2004 Infiniti G35 coupe. Protects engine and hoses from road debris and helps aerodynamics. Here is the skinny on the actual DIY:
(1) Used garage ramps which I have had for years.
(2) Changed while oil was still warm.
(3) Needed to remove cover openings from shroud to get at filter and drain plug.
(4) Drain plug is 17mm. Picked up oil drain plug washers from dealer beforehand. Washers are aluminum and cost $0.97/each. Use new washer.
(5) Removed factory OEM filter with regular filter wrench but some of you may want to use a cap-style wrench since filter access will be tight. Since I will be using Fram filters, I purchased this type when I bought my new filter and will use for the life of my 2.0T.
Oil capacity added was exactly 5 qts and took about 20 minutes. Will be changing oil at 5000 mile intervals.

Nice write up!....Well done..

Did you save all your receipts to protect your warranty?
 

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Have you or anyone else used a Fumoto Oil Valve? and if so, how did it work out?

Also, how important is the "top-tier" gasoline issue. I've never encountered that in other cars.
Top Tier gas has the 'engine cleaning' Fuel additive that Hyundai recommends...If you don`t use Top Tier gas, then you should add the Fuel Additive every 7,500 miles (or 12 months)...I believe it cleans the injectors, etc...In my area, it`s no more expensive than non-top tier gas...

See page #3...Item #3...of your Santa Fe Sport Maintenance Log...

Not all gas supplers have Top Tier gas...but there are quite a few...

Goggle 'Top Tier Gas" to get a list of them...


Fumoto valve...never used one, but a lot of folks love `em...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you or anyone else used a Fumoto Oil Valve? and if so, how did it work out?

Also, how important is the "top-tier" gasoline issue. I've never encountered that in other cars.
Nope. Not even aware of it. Would be a little afraid to use a stationary oil drain valve attached to my oil pan. Thing would have to be virtually fool-proof.
Our SFS2.0T vehicles are turbo powered and do have fairly high compression ratio. Hyundai wants to make sure that we get the best performance and life out of these engines. Any domestic grade of gasoline ( regular or premium) from reputable supply sources will meet Top Tier requirements, in my opinion. Top Tier designation is based on level of anti-knock and detergent additives added to the gasoline blend. I have primarily used regular unleaded in mine now for over 3000 miles. At 5000 mile intervals, I will add the fuel supplement as recommended in order to maintain my warranty but that is no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice write up!....Well done..

Did you save all your receipts to protect your warranty?
Yep. Quaker State requires that they be saved. Just put 'em in my folder with the registration certificate from Quaker State. By my estimation, it will take me about 10-12 years to get to 300,000 but it will sure be nice to get a few thou back. Warranty is transferable if I sell before that time.
 

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Just got to 1500 miles on my 2.0T and did DIY oil change. Not waiting until 3000 miles since I will be headed to Corpus Christi, Texas from Virginia next week and trip will be about 1600 miles. Used Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 with Fram XG9688 filter and also enrolled in Quaker State 300,000 cash-back program with a $20 mail-in cash rebate. Really impressed with the underside of my 2.0T. Shroud underneath the engine reminded me of my old 2004 Infiniti G35 coupe. Protects engine and hoses from road debris and helps aerodynamics. Here is the skinny on the actual DIY:
(1) Used garage ramps which I have had for years.
(2) Changed while oil was still warm.
(3) Needed to remove cover openings from shroud to get at filter and drain plug.
(4) Drain plug is 17mm. Picked up oil drain plug washers from dealer beforehand. Washers are aluminum and cost $0.97/each. Use new washer.
(5) Removed factory OEM filter with regular filter wrench but some of you may want to use a cap-style wrench since filter access will be tight. Since I will be using Fram filters, I purchased this type when I bought my new filter and will use for the life of my 2.0T.
Oil capacity added was exactly 5 qts and took about 20 minutes. Will be changing oil at 5000 mile intervals.
Living in Canada I haven't even think of a DYI work on my vehicles other that the regular change of the all season tires for the winter tires. :D
We are half of the year under 0C (32F) degrees and after that 2 to 3 months under or around 10C (50F) so unless you have a heated and isolated garage you cannot do much work on your vehicles most of the time.
DIY is a good practice though, and I wish I could do it.
In regard to the oil the dealer here uses Castrol which work very well by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Living in Canada I haven't even think of a DYI work on my vehicles other that the regular change of the all season tires for the winter tires. :D
We are half of the year under 0C (32F) degrees and after that 2 to 3 months under or around 10C (50F) so unless you have a heated and isolated garage you cannot do much work on your vehicles most of the time.
DIY is a good practice though, and I wish I could do it.
In regard to the oil the dealer here uses Castrol which work very well by the way.
You are pretty far North. Do you have to use engine block heater or not? Cold is as bad on an engine as heat, only in a different way. Any antifreeze treatment for your gas tank or fuel system? How does your Santa Fe handle in cold weather?
 
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