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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have read lots of threads on this forum before joining it. Great place for helpful information. I am just about to undertake replacing the clutch and flywheel on my son's 2004 Santa Fe 2.4. I have already replaced the master clutch cylinder and the slave cylinder - and adjusted the clutch both up and down. Still difficult to shift. Also (for the record) - I used a vacuum pump to bleed the system and then a reverse pressure pump to confirm no air.

So I am asking (wondering) if there is enough room to just slip the transmission back off the end of the motor to get at the clutch WITHOUT dropping the sub frame. Has anyone ever done it - tried it?? I do own an engine support to hold the motor when the transmission is disconnected from it. Also have an old school (manual) transmission jack. I have also already purchased a flywheel conversion kit and will be using the old DM flywheel as a frisbee. Any help (comments) would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!!

WELL - the answer is clearly YES. I just changed the clutch this weekend and I did NOT remove the sub frame nor did I even touch the steering rack, hoses or steering column. I DID lower the front of the sub frame over an inch by loosening the attaching bolts (they are quite long) on both sides. I ALSO removed the mounting bracket from the top on the end of the transmission to make it a bit smaller. The T/M just wedged itself nicely on top of the sub frame and sat there while I swapped out the clutch and flywheel. I converted the DMF to a single solid mass flywheel. WELL worth it. I bought the kit on eBay for about $350. I found the rear transmission mount a bit tight but managed to remove it from the transmission. I NEVER did take that mount off the sub frame - just off the transmission. Dual MAss Flywheel (DMF) is also like Dirty Mother F.

I have a lot of old metric bolts around my garage and to help slide the transmission back in I used FIVE fairly long bolts (heads cut off) and screwed them into the back of the engine block in five of the bolt holes which would normally be used to bolt the transmission to the engine. Looked kind of odd - like five little fingers sticking out. But as I eased the transmission forward (floor jack) from where it had been sitting so nicely - I simply lined it up with the 'five fingers' into the holes in the bell housing of the transmission and it literally slipped right in. Then i unscrewed the headless bolts (finger tight) and put the real bolts back in. The PULL clutch is odd (to say the least), but the clutch release bearing snapped into the lock clip in the back of the pressure place in about 2 seconds.

The lower ball joints were pretty rusted (could not budge one side), so I took the knuckle loose of the strut and popped the tie rod off as well so I could lean the assembly over and out the wheel well and there was lots of room to get the axles out.

Done feels good. It wasn't too difficult - just SLOW.

There is a GOOD You Tube video of a guy who did EXACTLY the same thing.

Good luck to any of you who decide to do your own clutch. Hope this helps.
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