For those that want to see the DRL/Turn signal bumper duct lighting. Glossy black is the surround of the light just like the duct covers on my 25 Calligraphy. The red wire goes to the wire connected to pin 5 on the headlight harness. Yellow turn wire goes to the wire connected to pin 7 which is the side repeater + circuit. Black wire to the wire connected to pin 9 which is the ground for the headlight/turn assembly. The pins and connectors at the headlight/turn assemblies are identical for left and right.The lights draw about 400 milliamps on my test meter. A very low power draw to operate these. The actual light units protrude from the bumper about 8mm. The old "ducts" that these lights replace are a snap fit into the bumper. They are tightly snapped in with retaining tabs. You need to work from 1/3 way down on the side opposite the duct opening it has 3 tabs. Protect the paint with painters tape. Use a thin plastic pry/spudger tool to start with. Once the tool is in, use a larger pry tool in the opening working your way up. Once you get the first tab released and have room, use your fingers to pull outward, working your way around. The outboard tabs where the duct opening is will be like a hinge so open the duct cover like a door and pull outward at the same time. There is no need to disassemble the bumper at all. Just use proper tools to fit and pry the duct cover out. I usually recommend putting painters tape around the duct cover to prevent marring/scratching the bumper paint.
impaladb
For those that want to see the DRL/Turn signal bumper duct lighting. Glossy black is the surround of the light just like the duct covers on my 25 Calligraphy. The red wire goes to the wire connected to pin 5 on the headlight harness. Yellow turn wire goes to the wire connected to pin 7 which is the side repeater + circuit. Black wire to the wire connected to pin 9 which is the ground for the headlight/turn assembly. The pins and connectors at the headlight/turn assemblies are identical for left and right.The lights draw about 400 milliamps on my test meter. A very low power draw to operate these. The actual light units protrude from the bumper about 8mm. The old "ducts" that these lights replace are a snap fit into the bumper. They are tightly snapped in with retaining tabs. You need to work from 1/3 way down on the side opposite the duct opening it has 3 tabs. Protect the paint with painters tape. Use a thin plastic pry/spudger tool to start with. Once the tool is in, use a larger pry tool in the opening working your way up. Once you get the first tab released and have room, use your fingers to pull outward, working your way around. The outboard tabs where the duct opening is will be like a hinge so open the duct cover like a door and pull outward at the same time. There is no need to disassemble the bumper at all. Just use proper tools to fit and pry the duct cover out. I usually recommend putting painters tape around the duct cover to prevent marring/scratching the bumper paint.
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