[Masood E]

Hi guys,

I have a 2011 Limited V6 2WD, the A/C is just not cold enough at idle, and once on the freeway it seems to cool sufficiently. Any ideas?
Could it be the Auxiliary Fan Resistor? Isn't that what controls the speed of the radiator fan depending on the demand, such as A/C being
turned on? Thanks

 

[dcbarry]

I have the same exact issue on mine — posted on a similar forum. On mine, I can see the radiatior fan spinning at idle, but unclear — is that the same fan that cools the condenser? Also, does it in fact run at different speeds? If so, is it one of the sensors instead?

 

[hnajee]

Had the same issue. Besides what @dcbarry mentioned, change glove box filter and water spray clean condenser; better yet, spray condenser with diluted dish washing soap and thoroughly spray with water
Hope it works

 

[esldude]

My 2012 limited is the same way. On days above 90 degrees doesn't quite cut it on cooling at idle or in very slow moving traffic. Get it up to speed just a bit and everything is fine. Sounds like maybe it is inherent in the design of the cooling/AC system.

 

[hnajee]

Have a 2013 3.3l SF and here in the summer it is always above 100 degrees. Did what I mentioned above and my wife always turns down the fan.

Only had this car a few weeks and I think it is a great car

 

[EnonEye]

hnajee thanx for the tips, but not sure I would spray your radiator with a hot engine block, let it cool off, just sayin

 

[Masood E]

Hi again guys,
dcbarry, the wire that goes to the radiator and condenser fan, (there is only one fan that cools both) actually goes thru a sensor before it gets to the fan motor. This sensor is a resistor which is attached right where the radiator and the condenser are. It detects the amount of heat generated by both the radiator and the condenser. This is a variable resistor whose value goes down as it gets hotter, thus letting more electrical current flow to the fan motor and making it turn at a higher RPM. On mine, I never see the fan turn at an extremely high speed, it stays at a low speed even if the AC is turned on. So, as an electrical engineer, I am guessing that this sensor/resistor is faulty, because the fan only runs at a steady, and rather slow speed, whereas it should have variable speed, depending on whether the AC is on, or even when the weather is too hot without the AC turned on. In summary, the fan should run at different speeds, and it doesn't. This may also explain why the AC gets colder at freeway speeds, the air is forced thru the condenser at 60 or 70 mph, making it cooler.
This is just a guess on my part, I have ordered the part and will update you when I replace it. I also like what hnajee mentioned, I think I will try it.

 

[hnajee]

hnajee thanx for the tips, but not sure I would spray your radiator with a hot engine block, let it cool off, just sayin

Yes. you are right. Good point

 

[hnajee]

Hi again guys,
dcbarry, the wire that goes to the radiator and condenser fan, (there is only one fan that cools both) actually goes thru a sensor before it gets to the fan motor. This sensor is a resistor which is attached right where the radiator and the condenser are. It detects the amount of heat generated by both the radiator and the condenser. This is a variable resistor whose value goes down as it gets hotter, thus letting more electrical current flow to the fan motor and making it turn at a higher RPM. On mine, I never see the fan turn at an extremely high speed, it stays at a low speed even if the AC is turned on. So, as an electrical engineer, I am guessing that this sensor/resistor is faulty, because the fan only runs at a steady, and rather slow speed, whereas it should have variable speed, depending on whether the AC is on, or even when the weather is too hot without the AC turned on. In summary, the fan should run at different speeds, and it doesn't. This may also explain why the AC gets colder at freeway speeds, the air is forced thru the condenser at 60 or 70 mph, making it cooler.
This is just a guess on my part, I have ordered the part and will update you when I replace it. I also like what hnajee mentioned, I think I will try it.

Kindly update us to learn from your experience

 

[Masood E]

Kindly update us to learn from your experience

My auxiliary fan resistor came in, and I replaced it. I started the engine, and at first the fan was off, after a few minutes it started spinning but only slowly. When I turned the AC on the fan speed went up full blast, I could hear the sound of the fan spinning more than the motor itself, and in the meantime the AC was getting colder and colder, still at idle. I went for a drive for about 15 miles or so, the AC continued to get colder and stay cold, even at stop lights. When I got home, I let it idle for 5 minutes with the AC running. It was very cold, and of course the radiator fan was spinning full blast. I turned the AC off and the fan slowed down a LOT, to where I couldn't even hear it. So I believe my problem was the Auxiliary fan resistor, and the fan speed does vary depending on how hot the resistor gets. I was right in assuming that my old resistor was faulty, and changing it fixed my problem of the AC going warm at idle, and not cooling sufficiently even while driving, especially city driving with a lot of stop and go. There are many factors impacting the performance of an AC system, they have to be diagnosed correctly. In my case, my guess was correct, the resistor was the culprit. Hope this helps. Thanks.

 

[dcbarry]

Massood:

Thanks for le the research. Where is the resistor physically located in the engine area/. Any chance you could post a picture/. Do you have a Hyundai part number you can share?

Thanks again! My situation seems to be resolved, but this is valuable info.

Cheers,

D.

 

[hnajee]

Yesssss dcbarry

 

[FabricGATOR]

My auxiliary fan resistor came in, and I replaced it. I started the engine, and at first the fan was off, after a few minutes it started spinning but only slowly. When I turned the AC on the fan speed went up full blast, I could hear the sound of the fan spinning more than the motor itself, and in the meantime the AC was getting colder and colder, ...

... There are many factors impacting the performance of an AC system, they have to be diagnosed correctly. In my case, my guess was correct, the resistor was the culprit. Hope this helps. Thanks.

Masood, Thank you returning and reporting your repair.

It is our feedback after a fault is repaired, THAT, is the most important part of any forum.. TO TELL THE FUTURE WHAT WAS THE BROKEN PART

So Masood, can you answer, where is this part located?
Can you easily post a picture for us?

I just can't wait to get my A/C working like when she was new, again. I am excited!!

 

[esldude]

I was wondering about my Santa Fe as it seemed marginal on cooling when parked or stuck in traffic. I checked the fans and they weren't running very fast. This after idling for several minutes, shutting down the engine, opening the hood and restarting. I was wondering if my fans were being held back on max flow because of this resistor. But after a few more minutes idling the fans slowly sped up. I guess an algorithm is working in it somewhere as it was already plenty hot for the resistor to be asking for fast fan speed. In a few additional minutes the fans were spinning away, and as someone else described it the fan noise was louder than the engine. So I think there is nothing wrong with my resistor.



The AC cools, but just marginally so even now. All the condenser coils etc are clean and clear. This is in a darker color Santa Fe, midday full sun and high humidity with 95 degree F (35 degree C)ambient temperature. Get it moving and within a couple blocks it cools right on down.



I've not checked the freon levels. The system hasn't been into since when it was new. Maybe it could use a couple ounces of freon. But it doesn't freeze up and seems easily able to cool in hot temps as long as you are moving a bit. It is even possible with R141 it could use a couple ounces removed.

 

[Masood E]

Kindly update us to learn from your experience

Hi hnajee, I tried to reply to your private message but it does not allow me unless I have 5 or more posts. So I will reply here:


I am not really a mechanic by profession, nor a Hyundai expert. I am just an electronics engineer with a very strong auto mechanic background. With every problem that comes my way, I first do a deep research and begin trying to get to the root cause of it. Do you mind if I took some time to look into your issue and get back with you? In my experience, the so called "factory trained technicians" don't know anything, they just blindly follow a repair manual and keep replacing parts on a car, and in the end the problem still exists. I will do some research and look at some wiring diagrams for a 2013 Santa Fe and get back with you.
Thanks...

 

[Masood E]

Masood, Thank you returning and reporting your repair.

It is our feedback after a fault is repaired, THAT, is the most important part of any forum.. TO TELL THE FUTURE WHAT WAS THE BROKEN PART

So Masood, can you answer, where is this part located?
Can you easily post a picture for us?

I just can't wait to get my A/C working like when she was new, again. I am excited!!

Hi FabricGATOR,

The part is located on the driver side of the engine, on the upper left side of the radiator. I do have pictures, but apparently I can not post any until I have 5 posts in the forum. Thanks..

 

[Masood E]

Massood:

Thanks for le the research. Where is the resistor physically located in the engine area/. Any chance you could post a picture/. Do you have a Hyundai part number you can share?

Thanks again! My situation seems to be resolved, but this is valuable info.

Cheers,

D.

dcbarry:

The Hyundai part number is 25385-2E100. I do have pictures of the location as well as the part itself, but I don't seem to be able to post it for now. Thanks...

 

[hnajee]

Hi hnajee, I tried to reply to your private message but it does not allow me unless I have 5 or more posts. So I will reply here:


I am not really a mechanic by profession, nor a Hyundai expert. I am just an electronics engineer with a very strong auto mechanic background. With every problem that comes my way, I first do a deep research and begin trying to get to the root cause of it. Do you mind if I took some time to look into your issue and get back with you? In my experience, the so called "factory trained technicians" don't know anything, they just blindly follow a repair manual and keep replacing parts on a car, and in the end the problem still exists. I will do some research and look at some wiring diagrams for a 2013 Santa Fe and get back with you.
Thanks...

Thanks Masood for your reply. Definitely I will wait n look forward. My email: hnajeeATgmailDOTcom
Best

 

[hnajee]

Door Ajar

Thanks Masood for your reply. Definitely I will wait n look forward. My email: hnajeeATgmailDOTcom
Best

Just wanted to update you. Today I did the 3rd n final ATF drain n tinkered with “door ajar”

1. When I press door lock I noticed it locks but immediately reopened. Couldn’t put on locked

2. An Ethiopian mechanic suggested I disconnect the battery. When I did that “door ajar” disappeared. I was elated but by the time I reached home (25 kms) it showed uo again. Really frustrating

It has to do with the car’s electronics
Salaaam